How to Detangle Natural Hair

One of our most asked questions is how to detangle natural hair.

And for good reason!

Properly detangling your hair is key to retaining length, avoiding split ends, and can turn a whole day hair session into a few pain-free hours.

Sounds enticing?

Well, read on to get all the information you need to properly detangle your natural hair.

We discuss:-

*Pssst, read up on our scoop on the 3 Best Oil Sealants for Natural Hair. 

1. What is a detangler?

A detangler is a hair spray, conditioner, oil, or hair butter that is used to separate knotted hair after a long period of protective styling.

Regardless of what detangler is used, ultimately a good detangler has the following characteristics:-

🌺They have slip;
🌺Have moisturising qualities;
🌺Do not have a thick consistency, but is easy to apply;
🌺Is not too runny;
🌺Is not drying (and does not contain alcohol);
🌺It usually (not always) has water as its first ingredient.

A detangler can also be a hair tool, such as a brush or comb that is passed through hair to help rid it of any shedding or small knots.

A good detangling tool has wide spacing between each tooth, and glides over, racking rather than snagging onto hair.

2. What causes hair knots / matted hair?

Knots are the number one cause of breakage and understanding what causes them allows you to be better prepared to prevent them occurring.

Firstly the nature of type 4 (and type 3 hair) is that the small, tight, coily hair strands have a tendency to wrap around each other. This may not be that much of an issue when the hair is shorter. However naturals definitely experience more tangles as their hair grows longer.

Other reasons for hair knots and tangled hair are:-

• Protective styling for long periods;
• Using heavy creams and oils during protective styling;
• Not properly detangling in-between hair styles;
• Using styling tools (like ribbons and rubber bands) that cause hair to clamp together;
• Not caring for hair during protective styling;
• Dry hair;
• Poor knowledge on how to care for afro-textured hair;
• Sleeping without a satin hair bonnet;
• Leaving hair in ponytails without refreshing the style;
• Hair rubbing / snagging, catching onto clothes and car fabric on long trips / consistently; and
• Not properly hydrating your hair.

First prize is always to avoid knotting of afro-textured hair, however we at NaHaZo know that sometimes life happens and this is not possible.

Therefore, should you find yourself with knotted, tangled hair, bookmark this article to come back to for all the ways you can properly detangle 4c hair.

3. 9 Golden Rules to Detangling Natural Hair

Properly detangling natural hair is the holy grail of any natural’s hair routine. It is the difference between retaining length or losing all your length gains.

Also, when done properly, detangling natural hair can help prevent split and uneven ends, which tends to give the appearance of unhealthy hair.

Before tackling detangling issues, we dive into the rules every natural should follow if she wants to see length, health and strength of her afro-textured hair:-

1.1 Do not be in a rush

This is key.

When you detangle your hair in a rush, you tend to rip and pull at your hair, which is likely to cause split and raggedy ends.

If you are pressed for time, rather reschedule your detangling to when you are not too busy.

Also, make sure that there are little to no distractions around and that you have at least 2 – 3 hours to yourself to detangle your hair.

Put on your favourite songs, watch your preferred programme or even catch up with a friend on a relaxing call, while you detangle your hair.

While you are at it, you can catch up on our recommended Top 7 Romantic Movies that Features Leads with Natural Hair.

At the end of the day, it is key to set aside time that allows you to handle your hair with patience, care and focus.

1.2 Use the right tools

This cannot be stressed enough!

If you know anything about type 3 or 4 hair, it is that it grabs and snags around anything that you put in your hair.

This is why fine toothed combs and brushes need to go. These brushes usually catch on afro-textured hair, snapping and pulling at the ends.

Rather look into using wide toothed brushes – but first prize is finger detangling; which brings us to our next rule.

1.3 Get good at using your fingers

Your fingers are the best detangling tool there is.

All ten of them and the great thing is that they are nimble, are attached to your body and do not cost a thing.

It takes getting used to, but once you get the hang of finger detangling, not a single comb or brush will ever touch your hair.

When you are still getting into it, remember that large knots are best detangled with your fingers and not a brush.

Lather the offending hair in your preferred hair detangler, and then get to work, parting and smoothing the knots away using your digits.

Only once you have properly finger detangled your hair, can you use a wide toothed comb or brush (should you prefer to do so).

1.4 Pre-poo the night before

Pre-pooing your hair the night before shaves at least 2 hours from your detangling time.

And that is a deal worth having!

What pre-pooing the night before does is allow your hair to soften, making it easier to detangle the following day.

This also allows any tangles and knots to get looser. It also introduces much needed moisture into your hair, making it easier to manipulate. 

Which brings me to my fifth rule.

1.5 Moisture, moisture, moisture

Moisture is your best friend when it comes to detangling your hair.

Never, ever, ever detangle your hair when it is dry!

That is a recipe for knots, shedding, split ends, pulled hairs and little to no length retention.

Also manipulating dry hair makes it harder for the knots to unravel or for you to finger detangle / brush your hair.

Invest in a good moisturiser, have it on hand and use generous amounts on detangle day.

1.6 Work in sections

This is one of NaHaZo’s favourite detangling hair hacks.

Do not be tempted to first detangle your whole head, but rather work in 2- 4 sections (even more, depending on the length of your hair).

Detangle one section, work your conditioning treatment into it and then put into twists before moving to the next section. Unravel your hair this way until your whole head is detangle.

Doing this method allows you to concentrate on one area and get it properly detangled, before moving to the next.

This works best because you avoid skipping a section or doing a poor job of detangling.

For extra slip, try out our DIY Chia Seed Gel for Hair. 

1.7 Be generous with your detangler

You need to be generous with the detangler if you want to easily detangle your natural hair.

Slather lots of detangler on your hair and make sure that you use a conditioner with lots of slip. Also make sure that it is not too runny or too thick.

It should have a good enough consistency to easily smoothen over your hair without too much drip, as well as penetrate your hair shaft.

1.8 Do it yourself

Yep, you read right! You need to get into the habit of detangling your hair yourself.

Unless your hair stylist is passionate about natural hair and has the time, patience and knowledge to do your hair properly – rather DIY.

This is especially true when you have kept your protective styling for a long time.

One of the fastest ways to lose length and appearance of thick hair is to go get your knots detangled at just any salon. We all know how that works.

Your long-worked for growth will find its way on the floor of the salon rather than your head, and you will be offered a cut for your troubles.

1.9 Work from the ends to the roots

The correct technique for detangling your hair is from the ends to the roots. 

Make sure that you start detangling your hair from the ends, and as this is the oldest part of your hair. Remember to be extra gentle. Use a lot of conditioner for slip and finger detangle your way to the roots of your hair. 

If you use a brush, repeat this process and start brushing / combing your hair from the tips and work your way to the roots. 

At the end of the day, if you are really serious about caring for your afro-textured hair, then detangling your own hair should be number 1 on your habit’s list.

Now that we have a good sense of the 9 golden rules of detangling natural hair, we can move our focus towards understanding how to detangle your hair with minimal damage. 

4. How to Detangle 4c Hair with Minimal Damage?

This Step-by-step guide lays the foundational process to detangle mild to severely matted 4c hair.

This is especially effective for removing knots after braids and cornrows.

Step 1: Pre-poo the night before

Using your preferred oil, drench your hair in oil the night before, cover it in a plastic cap and then secure it with a bonnet / head scarf.

This process works wonders in making your hair softer and easier to manipulate the next day. Also it gives it extra slip that makes finger detangling that much easier.

Looking to get into making your own oil? Check out our DIY series on How to make Rose Oil for Hair. 

Step 2: Spray your hair with detangling spray

Spray your hair with a detangling spray until it is damp, but not soaking wet.

Keep this spray handy to re-use to dampen your hair as it dries. 

Want to make your own detangling spray? Check out our Homemade Detangler for Matted Hair. 

Step 3: Section your hair

Section your hair into 2 or 4 parts (more, depending on the length / thickness of your hair) and secure with pins.

Step 4: Loosen the sectioned hair

Depending on your protective style (braids, cornrows, twists), lightly spray the section you are working on and undo the plait.

You can spritz it with detangling spray as you unravel, should you find the knots to be tough or that the hair has dried out.

Step 5: Finger detangle first and then use brush

One way to retain length and to properly detangle your hair is to make sure that you finger detangle each braid, as you unravel it. Rather than waiting until you have undone all the braids/twists/cornrows, rather detangle each section as you loosen your hair.

This process may feel tedious, but it is the best way to ensure that each strand of your hair is detangled properly. You are likely to miss certain spots when you decide to first unravel all your air before detangling.

Always first use your fingers to detangle. Afterwards, if you so prefer, you can brush the detangled hair with a detangling tool.

Step 6: Lather with conditioner

After you have properly detangled the first section of your hair, lather it generously with conditioner.

Step 7: Twist or plait the detangled section

After lathering with conditioner, then twist or plait the detangled section and then secure with a hair clip.

Again, it is important to always be aware of the nature of type 4 (and type 3 hair). This hair is not straight and has a tendency to curl around one another.

Rather than washing it in one big, untangled pile, rather wash it in plaits or twists to avoid any further tangling.

Also as afro-textured hair shrinks when damp/ wet, putting it in twists helps minimise clumping of detangled hair. After you have finished one section, move on to the next sectioned hair, working in this way until your whole head of hair is in twists / plaits.

Step 7: Wash your hair

The next step in the detangling process is to wash your hair with your preferred wash day regime products.

Depending on your preference, you can use a sulphate free shampoo, co-wash or even baking soda and ACV.

Make sure that you properly cleanse and wash you scalp and hair.

Step 8: Dry with an old cotton tee

Avoid roughly drying your hair as this can cause knots or tangles to appear.

Rather scrunch your hair in an old cotton tee and then squeeze lightly. Work this way through your hair until it is no longer soaking wet.

Step 9: Conditioning treatment

To hydrate your hair and make it easier to manipulate during styling, put a moisturising treatment on to your hair and cover for at least 30 minutes before rinsing.

Make sure you do this while your hair is still in twists and you rinse it thoroughly to remove all the products from your hair / scalp.

Step 10: LOC /LCO regime

This is the last step in your detangling process.

Dry hair tangles easily, so make sure you seal in your hair’s moisture

Depending on your hair porosity, you should apply a leave in conditioner, moisturising oil and then a sealant cream onto your hair.

Make your own sealant using our recipes for DIY Hibiscus Hair Butter, DIY Rosemary & Clove Hair Butter & DIY Chebe Butter. 

Thereafter, undo your hair, apply the LOC/LCO products and then re-twist it – allowing it to air dry in plaits.

Following this routine will allow you to retain all the length from your protective styling and realise growth month to month.

Do you want to get the most out of your LOC / LCO hair regime? Well, start by learning the difference between Moisturising Oils vs Sealant Oils. 

5. Should I detangle my hair wet or dry?

One of the more common questions asked by naturals is whether to detangle hair wet or dry. The answer is not as straightforward.

It depends on your hydration levels.

While the common natural hair myth passed around is that you must only detangle your hair when it is damp or wet, this is not true.

You can also detangle your hair while it is dry, with minimal shedding, as long as you have maintained your hair’s hydration. Also using the right products can make dry detangling pretty easy.

Need more convincing? Check out our in-depth analysis of Dry Detangling vs Wet Detangling: Which is Best?

Conclusion

In closing, detangling natural hair does not need to be a whole tear-filled whole- day affair.

As long as you remember the 8 – 10 golden rules and use a good detangler, the next steps should be a breeze.

 Give our 10 step regime a try & you will be blown away at how much easier detangling your hair becomes.

And as always, respect your afro-textured curl pattern. 

What has your experience detangling your hair been? Has it always been a stress-free session or has your pressure hit the roof? Sound off in the comments and let us know all about it. 

Until then ladies, happy naturaling!